Badlands M/C Products Illuminator Plug-In Style Run, Brake and Turn Signal Module ILL-01-VROD

You looking to find the "Badlands M/C Products Illuminator Plug-In Style Run, Brake and Turn Signal Module ILL-01-VROD" Good news! You can purchase Badlands M/C Products Illuminator Plug-In Style Run, Brake and Turn Signal Module ILL-01-VROD with secure price and compare to view update price on this product. And deals on this product is available only for limited time.

Price: $108.89    

Product Feature

• Compatible with TSM/TSSM modules and security systems
• Turns stock or custom turn signals into running lights and brake lights; still maintains turn signal function
• Rocker version is a must-have component when adding/changing turn signals or marker lights on FXCW/C with OEM integrated run/brake/turn light
• Increases visibility of the motorcycle from the rear
• Built-in load equalizer works with stock signals and can run the smallest custom signals, even LEDs

Product Description

Compatible with TSM/TSSM modules and security systems
Turns stock or custom turn signals into running lights and brake lights; still maintains turn signal function
Rocker version is a must-have component when adding/changing turn signals or marker lights on FXCW/C with OEM integrated run/brake/turn light
Increases visibility of the motorcycle from the rear
Built-in load equalizer works with stock signals and can run the smallest custom signals, even LEDs
Comes with easy-to-follow instructions and features plug-in connectors for hassle-free installation
Works with incandescent, halogen and 12V LED signals and markers
Made in the U.S.A.

Badlands M/C Products Illuminator Plug-In Style Run, Brake and Turn Signal Module ILL-01-VROD Review

This review will tell you all you need to know about the product and some install info focused on the 2008 HD VRSCDX (Night Rod Special) but I think also applies to new models too.

SOME ADVANTAGES
===============
If you convert your motorcycle to use LED lights there are a few advantages: 1) More energy efficient; 2) Safer -- Faster Lighting (negligible ramp time); 3) Better visibility; 4) Longer life -- more fault tolerant.

PROBLEMS DOING AN LED CONVERSION WITHOUT AN ADD ON CONTROLLER
=============================================================
They don't make the LED conversion easy to do. You might think the Electronic Control Unit (ECU -- "computer") would be smart enough to realize that you have converted to LEDs (less wattage -- load) and handle them correctly but this is not built-in -- my recommendation to Harley-Davidson to do this in future V-Rod ECU firmware/software. Still it is worth doing!

THE "LOAD EQUALIZER" OPTION -- DON'T DO IT -- BUY THE BADLAND(tm) STUFF
=======================================================================
This Badlands(tm) unit is not a "Load Equalizer" but to simplify things for salesmanship it may be called that. It is a BUCK-BOOSTER controller. It contains a microprocessor and can regulate voltages in both directions (amplify weak voltages or attenuate over voltages). I believe it simulates a load for a second when the a an indicator light (turn signal, etc.) is first turned on to fool the ECU into thinking there is a full load of incandescent bulbs present but I can only guess. A "Load Equalizer" is a wire-wound ceramic resistor and probably 45 watts or so. YOU DON'T WANT A LOAD EQUALIZER! You want this Badlands(tm) unit (or one of their other products). A resistor load equalizer is nothing but a small heater and they do get hot, start fires, burn out, etc. Putting one on you MC means you will have a failure coming up and if you are riding at night or a long distance trip -- you are sunk (maybe even dead if you don't know your rear lights are out and you get rear-ended on a highway).

LEDs FASTER RAMP TIME
=====================
By "faster ramp time" I mean that an LED brake light will light to full brightness in a few nanoseconds compared to the 300 ms or so that it takes the filament in an incandescent bulb to "light up." Sure it seems instantaneous to you but it is not -- a following vehicle may move 50 ft in the time that it takes for an incandescent bulb to "light" so just converting to LED brake lights allows drivers behind you 50 ft more distance/time to stop at 75 MPH (these are rough measures). Thus -- THE TRUE POWER OF LEDs.

MORE FAULT TOLERANT BUT YOU LOSE THE BLOWN BULB INDICATOR
=========================================================
To me one of the biggest advantages is also another HUGE safety benefit for a motorcyclist: LEDs are not prone to failure or "burn out" and there is no vibration susceptible filament. Having your tail lights/brake light fail in a car is dangerous but on a motorcycle it can be DEADLY the first time it happens. On many motorcycles (including the HD V-Rod) the system indicates when a filament has "blown" by flashing the lights at a much faster rate after about 4 regular speed flashes. If you use this Badlands(tm) unit you will lose that feature. I don't think a bad trade-off because you are getting a much more fault tolerant system. Note that the V-Rod has no "flasher module" -- this is built into the Electronic Control Unit (computer -- in software).

QUALITY OF THIS UNIT
====================
The unit is small and I can get it to fit under my seat just above the ECU in a bracket that is already there (for the TSSM security module I don't have -- I think). The device is in a hard plastic case and potted -- filled with epoxy filler to make it waterproof and vibration proof. This is a good thing and it was done well.

The installation instructions are VERY BAD. I know something about electronics and I am having trouble merging the portions of one sheet (with very hard to see too small photos) for older V-Rods and another with a few differences that apply to 2008 and newer V-Rods.

In fact, if they had just shown the "pin outs" or what each wire's purpose is and what it should hook into I could have gone to my wiring diagram and wired it quickly. No wiring diagram AT ALL! Just step-by-step instructions that may apply to your installation or not and with photos that you can't see.

For Badlands(tm) I would recommend they provide 4 sheets for 1. Pre-2008 w/TSSM; 2. Pre-2008 w/o TSSM; 3. 2008 and Newer w/TSSM; 4. 2008 and Newer w/o TSSM and a wiring diagram that shows the purpose for each wire (for sensing what lighting signal, for power-activating what light, 12 VDC power, ground, etc. Really easier to wire it with the diagram.

Here is what I discovered (applicable to 2008 and newer w/o TSSM) -- sharing with you to cut some time and effort and make your install easier. When you wire this for the first time don't cut anything just yet -- too easy to make a mistake (get lost in the wires). Instead, lay the Badlands(tm) unit on the ECU and tie the end of the wire around the wire on the connector you plan to make the cuts/connections too. Then take a break and come back with fresh eyes and double-check where each wire is going by tracing it from the module to its planned connection point. Here are the connection points. On the 2008 (and newer) VRods there is a large turn-signal 6-wire connector and a smaller tail-light 4-wire connector (3 wires coming off the male side) -- all connections are made to the male side wires on these two connectors (under the passenger seat):

MODULE
======
1. BLUE wire -- Sensing Running Light activation -- Attach (tap this wire -- do not cut it) to Turn-Signal Connector Block on male side on wire that is blue going into the connector and gray coming out.

2. BROWN wire -- Sensing Right Turn Signal activation -- Attach to (cut wire wire) violet wire on the male side of the Turn-Signal Connector. There are two violent wires on this side of the connector. Attach to the one that connects to the brown wire across the connector.

3. VIOLET wire -- Sensing Left Turn Signal activation -- Attach to (cut the wire) the other violet wire on the male side of the Turn-Signal Connector.

4. YELLOW wire -- Right Turn Signal activation (powered) -- Attach to the downstream wire that goes to the right rear turn signal that is left free when you cut the violet wire in #2 above.

5. GRAY wire -- Left Turn Signal activation (powered) -- Attach to the downstream violet wire that goes to the left rear turn signal that is left free when you cut the violet wire in #3 above. Note that there are no wires that activate the front turn-signals -- these are handled by the ECU without any problems as they were originally.

6. RED wire -- Brake Light Signal activation (powered) -- Attach to the red-yellow-striped wire on the male side of the Tail-Light connector. Reading installation notes on the Badland(tm) site I find that if you are running another LED controller/modulator (I am) in your brake light you may have some operating issues and so should install a rectifier diode (1N5001/1N5002) in the red wire with the cathode side toward the tail-light to block the black flow of voltage into the module. May be good to do this anyway so that you have the option to upgrade the brake-light at a later date. Radio Shack has a selection of these diodes in stock at every store.

7. ORANGE wire -- This is the 12 VDC power -- to provide power to the Badlands(tm) unit. The blue wire on the Tail-Light Connector is the 12 VDC keyed power (not powered until your ignition switch is in the on or accessory position. This attaches (tap -- do not cut wire) to the wire coming off the male side of that connector.

8. BLACK wire -- This is the ground wire for the Badlands(tm) unit. Tap it onto either of the black wires coming off the male side of the Turn-Signal Connector (both black wire are grounds).

The package comes with a number of crimp connectors and something called a Scotch connector which is a crimp connector that the male blade connectors (also in the package) can plug into. You could use these things for you initial installation and test but it is not good and not a professional installation to leave these things in place as they present many possible points of failure. Always best to create a solid molecular connection to wiring (especially on a MC) by soldering wire to wire and waterproofing (liquid tape) and heat shrink tubing. This is the best possible permanent installation that will prevent you from having electrical system failures in the future. The instructions say to use electrical tape. I would say that is also a bad practice for MC installations. Electrical tape tends to draw moisture into wiring and if splashed may wick the moisture and hold it. You don't want that.

What you do want is wiring that doesn't rub on anything due to regular MC operating vibration and movement and wires that are sheathed in some kind of abrasive resistant loose fitting vinyl sheath or split nylon tube sheathing or the spiral sheathing you can probably buy at your local hardware store or automotive store. Waterproof GE Silicone II adhesive (clear) from your local hardware store is perfect of setting the Badland(tm) module in place and zip ties are good too.

Good product and it is $118.95 from Badlands themselves to you are getting a deal here! [I have no association to Badlands or to Amazon -- just a customer like you]

Most of the consumer Reviews tell that the "Badlands M/C Products Illuminator Plug-In Style Run, Brake and Turn Signal Module ILL-01-VROD" are high quality item. You can read each testimony from consumers to find out cons and pros from Badlands M/C Products Illuminator Plug-In Style Run, Brake and Turn Signal Module ILL-01-VROD ...